Boat painting for fiberglass boats, woodwork and decks
Article concerned with what to do to ensure a great end result for your fiberglass hull, woodwork and decks.
Preparation
"What you put in, you get out" covers most aspects of sailboat maintenance. Boat painting is arguably at the top of the list. In order to fulfill your dream finish, whether it be the gelcoat or topside you must be motivated to do it well. The rewards are certainly obtainable. A gelcoat that will last for years or a topside that draws admiration on all occasions. There is not a secrets here. You do need a sander with a couple of different papers - usually 80 and 120 grits. These are used to prepare the surfaces for the primer coat. Next you will need to select suitable paint for the job. Is this the first time the boat has been painted? Or is it time for a fresh coat? Do you want a one part or two part polyurethane paint? Are you painting the deck? In order to get the most from your time. plan ahead. Ask questions in your local stores, advice after all is free. if your sailboat has been with you over the years then this will be second nature. The only question you have is "How long before i do this again". As paint technology develops the duration between repaints is longer. If your painting the hull, then you will need a few days of fine weather to finish the job. Before the season is good, or after, as long as you've got a few days to get it done without the heavens opening.
Brushes and Rollers
Brushes and rollers are next for consideration. Don't be tempted to the offer section of the store! If your working on a budget, now is not the time to worry about over spending. The quality of the brushes means they will last longer and the end result will remain in better shape too. Brushes can be judged by bending them in your hand and seeing whether they fan out or clump together. if many bristles fall out as you tap them against you palm, that's a sign of poor quality. Brushes come in synthetic - not advisable, better for house painting. Also China - made from hog bristles or ox bristles -being a mix between hog and ox. Finally and best of all badger bristle. The best quality bristles. Rollers need to have short naps. i.e not too spongy. You can always cut a bit of a roller off if you feel it is too long. With both brushes and rollers it is best shorter, because then you have more control.
Hull
Get a de waxing product and remove all the build up. Have a ready supply of clothes, as you will find the wax builds up on them as it is removed from the hull. Next identify any scratches or scraps that need to be filled. Use epoxy filler for this. Allow the filler to bulge out of the scratch. It will receed into it as it cures. Check the curing time before moving on to sanding those areas down. Use the 80 grit and then the 120 to finish.
Priming and Gelcoat
You must prime the fiberglass before applying your chosen gelcoat. The primer softens the fiberglass and makes it sticky. In fact it acts as a catalyst, allow the two surfaces to bond chemically. For the gelcoat you can use a spray gun and spray on the finish, or get a friend to help using a roller and brush technique. If you have never spray painted before, be very careful. You will need a proper breathing mask as the spray is highly toxic - beware! The safer and much less toxic way is to roll your finish on, whilst your friend follows behind brushing out any bubbles or contours. Your aim is to get a thin a coat as possible, without blobs in it.
Decks
Again you must prepare the surface to be varnished. Decks of course require a lot of time and love. If your using a natural varnish, the minimum amount of time before recoating is a month. The ones which have synthetic elements last longer. Over time varnish is oxidized by the sun, turning a dark color. If you want to retain your original teak coloring, them scrub the dark layer off, with a little help from a mild detergent and reapply. To extend the life of the varnish use a sealer. They are a mixture of oils and resins / polymer.
Woodwork
From the outset, find out whether your current paint is a good base for an undercoat. In any case you should sand down the surface using your sander with an 80 grit paper. Is takes care of flakes in the paint but also any rigids or build up. You want a smooth surface for your undercoat. Use a brush that offers control rather than covering large areas quickily. The larger the brush the more chance for error. When doing brush work you want to use long smooth strokes where possible. By using all the paint on the bristles, you stops a residue building up. Clean the brush with solvent suitable to the paint you choose at least every half an hour. This stops residue building up which makes the bristles bunch together.
Timing
Start your paint work when the dew has evaporated in the morning. aim to complete one coat before the sun becomes too strong. As the temperature rises or falls towards dusk, the paint will change application characteristics. Thinning out and thickening up through the day. Observe drying times between coats. Some times two primary coats are called for. Follow the instructions. Check to make sure that the primary coat is compatible with the finishing coat. To get the most from your materials. Store them well. Paint likes dark, dry storage areas. Brushes and rollers need to be thoroughly cleaned and wrapped. Other wise bristles stick together and rollers will not carry paint well. Keep them along side the paint. After all your efforts the finished product is worth the time spent. As you go along remember "What you put in, you get out"
Written by Chris Wethered of http://www.boatpride.com/boat-painting.htmlIf you would like to learn more about this topic click through to the site - Thank you!
Alternatively you can read about bottom painting here on weebly!